The following history
question was asked of John by a local resident. John's reply follows.
Hi John,
I am a graduate student in the
geography department at UNR. I am doing some research about the
neighborhood between Sixth Street and UNR (which I-80 cut in half)
for a paper I am writing. I came across your website at visitreno.com
and it seems that you have quite a bit of local knowledge. I wonder
if you might be able to help me find some information.
Currently, I am trying to find out
what that area was like before the Interstate was built. I have
Sanborne and some other maps, but they really don't tell me much
about what the sense of place was like (residential/business/industrial
use, income levels, racial profile, etc). If you have any other
information or suggestions about how to locate this information,
I would very much appreciate it.
One other question, but it's a long
shot. In the beginning of "The Misfits", Marilyn Monroe
is boarding at one of the divorce houses near downtown Reno. Do
you know if this house was actually in Reno, and if so, where?
Thank you,
John's Answer:
To the first question about Interstate
80 and the 6th street area; not much was really there except some
fields and old houses. The houses that were torn down for the highway
were built in the early 1910's and late 1930's. There were a few
houses and business prior to that, but most of them burned down
in fires, prevalent at the time because of kerosene lanterns and
wood stoves. Some of the fields along the stretch around the fairgrounds
are still there. That was exclusive land given to UNR by the county
and state a long time ago. The thought was to expand the University
Farm Field studies into one of the largest animal and plant research
facilities in the Western United States. Most of the area next to
the freeway up to Evans Avenue was made up of a patchwork of fields
fed by a ditch system coming from the Truckee River all the way
west from near the Mayberry Bridge. The fields were primarily timothy
and rye grass fields for the many cattle that were bred at three
large rances in north Reno. One of those ranches is now a park you
know as Rancho San Rafael. It originally was on land that crept
all the way down to Fifth and the end of Nevada Street which at
one time went up the hill as a dirt rode all the way to the ranch.
University Terrace off of Sierra Street was built and stopped Nevada
Street in its tracks. The rest of the little farms represented the
holdings of some Basque and Italian families who grew potatoes and
other hardy vegetables. There were two narrow guage railroads that
came up the hill from Reno into the mining district from just east
of Lake Street. Both hauled supplies, ore and workers back and forth
for years during the late 1890's and early 1900's. As the mines
in the Wingfield district around Sun Valley dried up and miners
left the area for more lucrative ventures in Virginia City, Austin
and Tonapah, the railroads were moved out of town lock, stock and
barrel. There was hardly any industry in that area except for a
small tack and saddle shop and one large metal shop. Most of the
town of Reno was built along the railroad and south of town. The
town dump was located on a hillside just northeast of the UNR Campus
and just south of McCarran Blvd. There is a large mobile home village
at it's eastern edge there now. Valley Road used to be the road
to the dump. Unlike today, most everything ran east and west, but
as the town grew and people came to open up new businesses the direction
started to move south and north. UNR stood almost all by itself
for a couple of decades and then people started to fan out across
the western and northern hills. I remember 395 as a two lane bumpy
road north of town all the way into California and beyond. Some
days, you could get on a horse just north of Seventh Street and
not meet anyone all the way to Stead Airfield. Oh, by the way, the
average income of the area was around $50 a month during the early
1900's. That was pretty high for the West. The town was run by just
a few wealthy land baron's, mine owners and bankers. A few of their
homes and mansions still stand along the southern shores of the
Truckee and along the north side of California Avenue. During the
1930's, jobs and homes were lost and a few of land barons bought
out the land as it went on sale at the County Court House for back
taxes. One of them was a grumpy old codger by the name of Levere
Redfield. His rock mansion still sits on Mt. Rose Avenue inhabited
by a so called relative. Redfield used to play roulette at Harrah's
during the 1950's and 60's for thousands of dollars. He even had
special lammers that were made for his play indicating the size
of his bets. You would never know he was rich though. He wore old
worn out trousers and always had a scruffy beard and he always carried
a little brown paper bag. In the bag was a sandwich and a roll of
money. He never carried less than twenty to thirty thousand dollars.
The reason? Because he would sit on the doorstep of the County Courthouse
awaiting the clerk to make and post the annoucements of land for
sale for back taxes. He'd pay the taxes and pay off any other notes
that were attributed to the land and take it over. He liked the
food at Bill Harrah's buffet and always ate for free. At one time,
Redfield owned a good portion of South Reno all the way to Huffaker
and up into Incline Village and north into Truckee. He would sell
it to developers for as much as a hundred times or more what he
paid for it. Then, he would go buy silver and gold dollars and hide
them in his basement and on pieces of property. After he died, an
inspection of his home and basement built with huge pieces of redwood
for flooring led to the discovery of holes bored deep into the wood
and holding hundreds of thousands of dollars in Silver Coin. There
is still good reason to believe he left a ton of gold and silver
coin in the ground on pieces of land he owned in the Sierra.
As to your second question, there
were about sixty boarding houses and divorce ranches in the Reno
area during the 1950's. Reno was known as the Divorce Capital of
the world and women from around the country came to the area to
wait out the six weeks and later two weeks for residency requirement
to be granted a divorce. Two of the larges houses were south of
Reno and one was a famous dude ranch. The dude ranch was owned by
one of the best horseman I ever knew. He trained quarter horses
to fall as a stunt in Hollywood westerns. The cowboy movies wouldn't
have been the same without his training. Every time you see an old
western and a horse tumbles or falls on cue from being shot by an
Indian or Calvary trooper, that horse was most probably trained
at this ranch. The stables later became known for its great trailriding
and quiet surroundings by the Hollywood elite who came through for
a respite or a divorce stay. The place was known as Western Stables.
A few of the best stunt men in the world worked with the horses
prior to actually taking them to Southern California and Hollywood.
The boarding house was actually smaller than a dozen others in town
but was more famous and well known by Hollywood directors. So, yes,
some of the scenes were shot in and near there. A lot of the room
scenes are actually sets in a Hollywood sound stage though. They
were shot early in the movie production and then the crew and cast
came to Reno to finish the outside and casino scenes. Some of the
filming was around Fallon and Dayton and of course the casino was
the Mapes Hotel and the old Commercial. But all the most exciting
stuff was filmed north of Reno between Sky Ranch in Spanish Springs
Valley and Winnemucca Lake north of Pyramid Lake.
As a note of interest, I did meet
and talk for a long time with a gentleman cowboy that was the best
horse handler and wrangler I've ever met. At the time, he was well
into his 50's but worked circles around the other guys around the
valley who trained horses. His name was Jack Lindell. Jack taught
me some wonderful tricks on handling young quarterhorse studs. My
background was with a little larger horse known as the Appaloosa.
I broke and rode many horses growing up and I can't remember ever
being unlucky with an Appy. Quarterhorses were few and far between
in the region because of the cold winters but several ranchers took
them in and developed breeding lines that have hung in there ever
since. Most of these horses from this region were used for show
but a few got out on the cutting range when horsemen saw the breed
as a natural cutting horse. I worked a ranch when I was young in
the south end of the valley known as the "Double Diamond".
It was owned by a man who was very rarely on the ranch. He was usually
off to Europe or Africa or Asia and only came back to the Reno ranch
to relax once in a while. His name was Wilbur D. May. If you put
his initials W and M together with the M above the W you saw his
brand, hence the double diamond. He was a nice man with a bit of
a limp but he loved horses and when I broke one of his quarterhorse
studs in less than a couple of hours one day, he gave me a shotgun
with field and stream inlay. I used the technique I learned from
Jack Lindell and it always worked, especially on the truly tough
hombres. The trick was being quiet and confident and letting the
horse respect you as its peer. I never used a bucking saddle or
star bit because it wasn't necessary. You just needed to show the
horse you cared about them. That was the trick and I'll never forget
it. |