The Clan Alpine Mountains, Dixie
Valley, Gabbs & Berlin Ichthyosaur
by John C. Evanoff
January, 2006
We continue our adventure along
the “loneliest highway” Highway 50 east of Fallon just
past Sand Mountain and Frenchman to NSR121 going north into the
Dixie Valley. The valley is more than 30 miles in length and was
once one of the many arms of the great Lake Lahontan inland sea
some 12,000 years ago. It is bordered by the Stillwater Mountains
to the northwest and the Clan Alpine Mountains on the southeast.
What makes this area noteworthy is the giant Humboldt Salt Marsh
that sits at its northeastern entry. The Paiute Indians were extremely
successful for thousands of years here, and now, some of the best
chucker and duck hunting in Nevada can be found in this region because
of the many springs that feed from the two ranges into the marsh.
The marsh itself is amazing because it lies above a massive aquifer
and many of the bubbling pot holes are remarkably deep. Some folks
even believe the springs are bottomless. This area is just plain
beautiful to behold and occasionally noisy because the Naval Strike
Air Warfare Center at Fallon, “Top Gun,” uses the area
for gunnery and air strategy practice. Both sides of each mountain
range should be explored for their awesome beauty and you should
also include the Pony Express station just before Cold Springs just
off Highway 50 going east towards Austin from Middle Gate Station.
On the north side of Highway 50 heading east around Cold Springs
Station are many tiny creeks that meander down the slopes of the
Clan Alpine Range. These streams, although hard to get to, are full
of trout and can be a test for the avid fly fisherman. South of
Middle Gate and Cold Springs Station are two roads, one heading
to Gabbs and the other heading east to Austin.
The road heading south, NSR361,
about 30 miles to Gabbs is of particular interest because Gabbs
was famous at one time for its magnesium and iron mines and its
importance to the war effort during World War II and Korea. It is
almost a ghost town now but for a couple hundred people who still
live in the area. What sets it apart in the present era is the road
leading east from it for a couple dozen miles into Berlin-Ichthyosaur
State Park. The mining town of Berlin is a chance to view a perfect
Nevada ghost town. The mines in the area around Union, Ione, Grantsville
and Berlin belonged to the Nevada Company, one of the largest silver
and gold mining operations in central Nevada between 1899 and 1909.
Tons of ore were processed through the mill at Berlin and the buildings
and mines there are very well preserved giving visitors an opportunity
to view an operation that looks like it could easily be started
up again. The Diana Mine tour, a walk into a tunnel more than a
thousand feet in length through solid rock is a great way to examine
the area’s mining heyday with displays including ore carts,
the actual timbers still holding the mine roof up and huge veins
of quartz within the many side tunnels. One place is a must-see
when you visit Berlin though. Ichthyosaur State Park has campgrounds
and a building housing one of the best examples of prehistoric fossil
beds ever found in Nevada. At one time, the prehistoric ocean of
more than one hundred million years ago enveloped all the land except
for a couple islands of mountains in what is now central Nevada.
The bays and inlets formed by these islands often caught creatures
in their basin mud and led to the present day discoveries of fossils
by scientists. One of the monstrous oddities of the ancient Jurassic
and Cretaceous world was the ichthyosaur, a giant marine reptile
some fifty feet in length. These fish lizards did not have gills
and bore their young alive. They had large eyes, were air breathers,
had long jaws with sharp teeth and were extremely fast according
to marine scientists and paleontologists. These monsters ruled the
seas for millions of years until around 90 million years ago when
they suddenly vanished. Their extinction remains a mystery still
today. Of all the ichthyosaurs discovered in the world, the fossils
found at this park are among the largest specimens. When you see
these fossils up close and personal, you get the feeling they might
harbor the secrets of an entire age of giant creatures. More than
forty of the giants were found in the area. The park is best seen
in early summer and early fall. Fall is by far my favorite because
of the tree colors on Arc Dome with an elevation of more than 11,775
feet to the east and the two Shoshone Peaks to the north at more
than 10,000 feet each. The campground is clean and pleasant and
many of the walking and nature trails in the area feature information
on Berlin and the Fossil Shelter. The tour program is open during
the summer and guides can give you a more close-up informational
view of the area and the giant fish lizards. The Toiyabe National
Forest in this area is home to abundant mule deer, antelope, coyote,
elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goat, mountain lion, badger and game
birds such as partridge, quail and sagehen grouse.
Many of the old roads in the area
lead into the Toiyabe Range and north to Highway 50. You could spend
several weeks exploring and discovering the geography, resources
and history of the region but remember to always carry plenty of
water and food and wear sturdy hiking boots.
Next on my lists of must-see-to-believe
visits of Northern Nevada are Austin, Bunker Hill, Mount Jefferson,
Manhattan and the geographic center of the State of Nevada.
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